February ‘05

The 25^th anniversary year started with a meet on the 2^nd of January, not bad eh? Members have been out and about in the Alps, Africa, The Lakes, Scotland and the very mountainous region of Shropshire! The year is only 56 days old!

The grapevine reports the safe arrival of another prospective new member in the form of a son to Helen & James, name unknown to our reporter, but apparently James was heard to utter, “I need a drink”, some things never change. Also on the domestic front Swampy and Emilie have set a date for their wedding in May this year, we wish them well. Congratulations go to Mark Highton who has gained his SPA, to join the growing list of members who have gained formal mountaineering qualifications.

This newsletter is a bumper edition and includes a few specials for this special year. Andrea has been contacting former members to find out where they are now and what they’re up to, and some biographies appear here. Andrea has also been delving into the club archives and some of her findings will appear in future editions. We have a number of past and present members gathering at Hinckley Golf Club on 4^th March for an anniversary dinner, where Mick Fowler will recount progress in mountaineering through his own experiences in the Himalaya in the last 25 years. Mick is particularly well qualified to discuss this as anyone who has read My Vertical Pleasure will know. His humble beginnings started with club trips to the greater ranges. Developing a bold alpine style approach to Himalayan mountaineering, he was recently awarded the Piolet d'Or for his ascent of the north face of Siguniang.

We have finally prised the article from Helen B about her Tat award winning Bolivian Trip of a couple of years ago. These Cambridge undergraduates have a terrible time with 3 eight week semesters per year!

Simon Yates: Beyond the Void

As part of the clubs 25th anniversary celebrations, we’ve booked Simon to do a slide show / lecture on Wed 23 March 2005 7.30pm at Lutterworth Grammar (his old school). Tickets will be £7 and we’re expecting it to sell out. I’ve already sold half of the tickets, so don’t delay in securing your ticket.

Xmas Pud Walk – Monday 27th December

Once again John T led the annual “Pud Walk”, this year heading back to his old stomping ground with a walk of around 9 miles in his beautiful home county of Shropshire. Many members past, present and potential joined John for his circuit along the Long Mynd. There was snow on the hills as the party set off amidst a gathering hunt. Rumour was that a watchful eye was being kept over some of the HMC members in case they were there to sabotage the hunt! I’m not saying that party members looked unkempt, but Ed was seen to take an early bath (in a cattle tub) accompanied by his ever faithful rubber duck! After instigating a mass snowball fight, Helen B skidded off doing a “black run” down a snow slope without her skis … In true tradition the day ended with the chance to purchase more pud in the pub, washed down with a pint or two of their seasonal home brew; “Old Scrooge”. Nice.

Skittles 12^th May 2005

Our annual skittles match against Rugby MC is booked at the usual venue – The Red Lion, Huncote. Kick-off is at 7:30pm – let’s show them that we’re not one hit wonders and we can retain our trophy!

P.S – If you’ve got any fun ideas for other social activities (e.g. Snowdome, BBQ etc) let me know. Andrea.

Coniston January 2005

Friday morning witnessed Brian K, John T and Hillary L making an early escape from the Midlands. The eventually arrived at Rydal Mount at about Mid-day and set off up the start of the Fairfield Horseshoe. Their target was only to get to Heron Pike or perhaps Great Rigg. Great Rigg was in cloud so they decided to drop to Attock Tarn via Butter Crag. Their chosen return to the car was via the Corpse Road. This ended up being an obstacle course over many fallen trees including two that had conspired to fall onto a gate. The only way to proceed was to climb amongst the branches and then climb the gate. They successfully negotiated this obstacle to find a sign at Mount Rydal stating that the path was closed!

Saturday morning saw low cloud over the Coniston Fells. For once the majority of the group chose the go out in one group. So Richard, Annette, Tim, Andy T, Pete B, Andy C , Paul J, Barra (returned to the fold) and his guest Mick, Brian (K) set off up Wetherlam. John and Hillary found things to do whilst they were left alone in the Hut. The main party took navigation very seriously, checking every possibly change in direction with map, compass and GPS. Wetherlam summit was eventually found so the intrepid explorers set their sights on Swirl How. Again meticulous attention was paid to navigation when we chose to continue along the ridge to either the Old Man or Goat Fell. Somehow, unbelievably, at Great How Crag a wrong path was selected. We chose to ignore a rising party who assured us that they had gone wrong. In a false sense of our navigators’ (Richard and Tim) ability we continued to a place where the path ran out above a 15-metre cliff. ‘Oops’ Richard said muttering about a Golden Compass Award (what ever that is). The way down was steep and very greasy but all managed to descend safely, some with more grace than others. The way back to the hut was found and all made their way down to the Pub for the evening. Most walked but one car did the journey. It was interesting to watch this car sped up to the hut with more than the usual number of passengers. These people however were frustrated by having a long wait for John (and Hillary) to arrive with the key. Motto: if you want to get to the hut first know where the key is!!!

Sunday appeared brighter first thing. Brian K packed early and was off before others were up. He did a very damp walk from Tibberthwaite to Little Langdale in ever increasing volumes of precipitation. Barra and Mick climbed at Kendal Wall. The majority chose to complete the financially dangerous traverse of the Ambleside gear shops and cafes.                                                                    GPS Man

Skiing Jan 2005

Blue skies… Nothing But Blue Skies…

This years’ skiing trip was to the high alpine village of Val D’ Isere with its unique skiing area and abundance of shops, bars and restaurants, which made a pleasant change from our usual 3 Vallees foray.

With a group of 25 mixed ability skiers, we soon split up into different factions. Those up for the “blacks” joined Swampy & Emilie whilst the ski virgins went off to ski school, and I had a merry band of followers for the blue/green and red runs. Our boarding contingent disappeared until happy hour, returning with talk of 360 degree double back flip somersault or other...

Apart from -17 degrees on the first day, the weather turned out fantastic – blue skies and warm sun for the duration of the break.

Unbeknown to us, Ewan (who had to miss this trip on account of fatherhood) had been checking the Val D’Isere web site and web-cam daily to see what the weather was doing, and what he was missing. Bless.

The accommodation can only be described as typically French - each apartment the size of a 20’ container with a door at one end and window at the other. Kennel size in fact. Which probably accounts for the fact that 18 of us went down with kennel cough? Thank god you only kip in ‘em.

As for the skiing – it was excellent. Great runs and they didn’t seem as crowded as the 3 Vallees but ask anyone what they thought of the Leissiers Express chairlift and you’ll probably get the same answer - “bloody scary”. Just as you reach the top of the ridge, and you expect to get off, it shoots over the ridge and about a 1000’ drop appears beneath your feet. Scary.

Tignes also has some excellent skiing, and we managed to find some great gullies for a bit of off piste. Great fun, particularly the formation skiing team of Carolyn, Brian & myself who narrowly missed each other at high speed in the bottom of one gully. Must synchronise the start times better.

The evenings were spent “early doors” in the local bar, followed by dining out at one of the many eateries, or dining in with copious amounts of red wine. James joined us for a few days mid-week, and I can confirm he’s still barking! We did find a great band called Mullet who performed an acoustic set in our local, and a full on rock set up the road a couple of nights later.

All in all, an excellent week, but beware of high speed chairlifts (Swampy got injured by one, laying him up for a day or so) and watch out for dog shit around the town - they’ve never heard of pooper scoops these French.

Oh yes. Must mention the Vikings who bared their chests and butts for the girlies at the top of the Touvere chairlift. Impressive stuff, but not half as impressive as their three blonde nubile girlfriends who skied topless down into Tignes. I’m not one to gossip, but I’ve never seen Richard ski so fast and even Andy Anstee managed a quick schush!                                                                             Eddie The Beagle

TheTwin Peaks of Africa. Mt Kenya and Kilimanjaro.

Christmas 2004

Last year was my 60^th birthday, so how do I celebrate this milestone, I could spend what little I had in the bank on securing a place in a rest home for retired gentle folk, I could help to finance my daughter through the first year or so of university, I could buy a new car for my wife, I could take her for a round the world cruise, or I could squander it all on a dream. I chose the latter.

And that’s why I found myself with number one son Chris in a cheap hotel in downtown Nairobi after 22 hours of travelling, with the bar closed for the night. Bugger. Worse still, after a shower I discovered I had left my comb at home.

Day 2 Nairobi to Mountain Rock Lodge

After untangling myself from the mosquito net in the Kenya Comfort Hotel we travelled to our first base, the Mountain Rock Lodge, a Kenyan Plas y Brenin at 6397ft. Although surrounded by tropical rain forest, it was above mosquito level, had chalets with showers, a daytime temperature of 85ºF, a restaurant ready to serve lunch and best of all, a bar. Tusker beers all round.

 An afternoon walk in the rain forest was nearly curtailed when a rampaging bull elephant was spotted by another group, our forest guide Benjamin was ready to turn back and head for safety, but we persuaded him that none of us had seen a rampaging bull elephant and after a few bottles of Tusker we were feeling quite brave, We went on but fortunately our paths didn’t cross.. Night fell quickly at 6.00pm, as did the temperature, fires were lit, dinner was taken with a Tusker or two. The last beer for a week.

Day 3 Sirimon Gate 8580ft to Old Moses Huts 10900ft via the Equator

The adventure begins. We meet our guide Solomon and his team, Fifteen of them for the seven of us. All the kit for all of us, food, cookers, fuel, tables, chairs, tents, water containers, porters personal gear and all of us piled into the truck.

We stop at the equator for the necessary photos and demonstration of The Corriolis Force. The town of Nanyuki, a mile further on is the Keswick of Kenya and is the main centre for accessing the Mount Kenya National Park. Twenty miles away Mt Kenya dominates the town at the end of the High St or Laikipia Road as the locals call it. More importantly it had a mini supermarket, which sold combs and everything else.

We now left the tarmac road for the cross country dirt track to the Sirimon Gate at 8580ft. Everyone out of the lorry and while the porters busily repacked the gear we had to register with the park rangers at the “Gate” From here on we were walking up to Old Moses Hut at 10900ft.

The walk took us at first through the montane rain forest then bamboo and then the heath zone. The walk through the forest was of course part of our acclimatisation and we were all soon out of breath, Pole Pole (Slowly in Swahili) urged Solomon, but it was very hard work getting to the hut. Patrick the cook did us proud with welcoming popcorn and tea, soon to be followed by a substantial meal  of home made soup (i.e. soup made from fresh ingredients, cooked on primus or gas stoves), main course of meat, (freshly cooked) veg, pasta, rice or potatoes followed by a pudding, often-fresh fruit. All this was carried by the porters. Thermos flasks filled with hot water allowed us to make tea, coffee and chocolate as we needed. This pattern was to be followed throughout the trek.

We were not the only people at the hut; there were Germans, French, Swiss, Dutch, Italians, Americans, Welsh and a few Kenyans. The hut itself was somewhat like a club hut only very basic, no electricity or hot running water, but the toilets were flushing sit down jobs, unlike at the camp sites we came too later which were holes in the ground. Bunks were crowded together, but had basic mattresses. The sunset quickly at 6.15 and it became very cold,  a paraffin Tilley lamp was lit in the dining area, but head torches were needed everywhere else. Early to bed anyway, it was to be a 5.30am wake up call in the morning.  Warm enough in my new sleeping bag but didn’t get any sleep.

Day 4. From Old Moses Huts to Shipton’s Camp 13897ft

A heavy frost covered the ground as we left for the 9 mile hike to Shipton’s Camp (huts) at13897ft. By 8.30 the temperature hit the eighties and it was time for shorts and T-shirt. Already I was tired, had a slight headache and was definitely suffering from the altitude. The vegetation changed to the alpine zone but with strange plants, giant lobelias, helichrysums and tree groundsels. Lots of birds but not much animal life apart from the Rock Dassies, looking like Marmots and about the same rabbit size, they had tusks and their nearest relative is the elephant. The last mile was very, very hard work, a few steps, followed  a few minutes leaning on my trekking poles catching my breath and so on. At Shipton’s Camp I collapsed into a bunk and crashed out for an hour, got up for dinner, which I couldn’t eat, threw up (on nothing) took a paracetamol and went back to bed. However felt a little better when I was told that some members of other groups had failed to get that far (all younger than me) and there were a couple in bunks who were in a worse state than me. Their guides were checking on them constantly. Later that night I capitulated and took half a Diamox pill before trying to get some kip.

Day 5 Shipton’s Rest Day

Very little sleep, but a lie in. Today was a rest day, i.e. an acclimatisation day. Just a climb up to a col, a couple of thousand feet above the camp to help with the altitude. I felt a little better but not much and was sick again on top. Tomorrow was going to be the summit day with a middle of the night start. Started snowing now and was very cold, my birthday present of a new duvet was now put to good use. Back to bed with another half a Diamox and a paracetamol.

Day 6 Shipton’s to Point Lenana 16354ft and down to Nithi Falls 10826ft

Not much sleep, but feeling slightly better, up a 2.00am for a 3.00am start. Very cold but dry and a clear sky for the 2500ft climb  Point Lenana. The main summits of Mt Kenya, Batian and Nelion at just over 17000ft are “ rock or rock and snow climbs”. It was hard slog in the dark, climbing through fresh snow over icy rocks, for two thousand feet  one step upwards, and half a step backwards. Solomon soon produced his secret weapon, an ancient ice axe, circa Mallory and Irving to cut steps, which helped those in the party with bendy trekking boots. Chris and I wearing mountain boots and more used to snow climbing than the others this section less difficult.

After three hours of unrelenting trudge, the sky lightened in the east (where else) and a final ten foot ice covered rock step was surmounted we arrived at the summit at 6.00am just as the sun peeped over the horizon bathing the entire world in an amazing orange glow. Soon the summit was crowded as other groups joined us as the sunrise soon became full daylight with magnificent views in all directions. After 30 minutes or so it was time to start the descent, down the rocky step and now we see the route we had taken, quite spectacular in the daylight. We now had a nine-mile hike using the Chogoria Route to the campsite. this was to be the only camp on Mt Kenya. After two hours we arrived at Hall Tarns (many of the lakes around Mt Kenya are called tarns) it was now very warm and we were all ready for a rest and food. We rounded a bend in the path and there it was, breakfast, on a table with tablecloth, chairs, fresh fruit, hot porridge and honey, to be followed by sausage and eggs, tea and coffee, toast. The porters, carrying all the gear, tables, chairs, stools, food, tents, cooking gear, fuel, lights, our gear their gear etc,  had of course taken the easier! route over the Simba (Lion) Col, at only 15157ft. Hot now, time for T Shirts, shorts and an hours kip.

We followed the spectacular Gorges Valley for most of the day, arriving mid afternoon at the campsite which was no more than a level bit of ground by a bubbling stream surround by waist high heather and the only sign of man was the “Choo”, the toilet, a hole in the ground and a couple of wooden walls. Perfect. Dinner in the open air was served on the same table and same tablecloth as before. Another fine meal, cooked in the open air on primus and gas stoves for all twenty-two of us. Night fell and campfires were lit and great conversation was had with guides and porters as we shared the heat of the fire. Bed and finally a good night’s sleep.

Day 7 Camp to Meru Mt Kenya Lodge and Bandas (Huts)

Fine day and short 5 mile walk to the Lodge at 9898ft and a promise of a shower and a bed. First a shower, provided by a wood fire under an old oil drum filled with water outside each hut and gravity fed to the shower. It was warm and wet and we deserved it. Then time to wash out socks and nics and a relax in the hot sunshine as we waited for lunch. And then Caroline made an amazing discovery, the site has a little shop and it sold BEER, hooray, but the rush to the shop was soon brought to breathless halt as altitude reminded us that we still at nearly 10000ft, so pole pole, a slow rush to the shop and a pleasant beer before and during lunch was a treat.

Afternoon spent lounging about and this being the last full day we would be with the porters and guides it was time for the formal tipping of our porters and guides. Scott made the speeches, thanking them for their help and each member of the group handed over tips to the porters, the amount determined by “rank”. The guide, Solomon had the most, then the assistant guides, the cook, the assistant cooks, the climbing porters and finally the “ordinary” porters. Although ordinary is not a word that should be used to men who carry wooden tables and chairs over mountains. (we did meet a lady porter with one of the other groups). Late afternoon spent watching buffaloes, antelopes and monkeys at the watering holes, which surrounded the camp. A leopard was seen, I was going to write spotted but all leopards are spotted.

Day 8  CHRISTMAS EVE. The Final Day, Mt Kenya Lodge to Chogoria and Nairobi

The coldest night of the entire trip, everyone was cold, despite the bed and blankets and a wood fire in each chalet. It was to be a day of contrasts. We started at over 9000ft surrounded by forest, mountains and wild animal and said goodbye to most of the porters. The lodge was accessible by Land Rovers and they packed all the equipment and some of themselves into the vehicles.

We walked out along the dirt road past a group of monkeys, past signs “Give Way to Dangerous Animals”, through the tree forest and then the bamboo forest, finally reaching more open country. At this point one of the Land Rovers caught up with us, the porters were tipped out and we took their place for the twelve-mile ride to edge of the park. (The porters stayed where they were for a kip and the Land Rover returned for them later).

Into the Land Rover piled seven trekkers, two guides and a driver, all the sacs, the overnight rucksacks, chairs, tables, cooking pots, tents on the roof and three porters hanging on to the back for the hour long twelve mile journey, Finally we reached the rendezvous with the minibus at the village of Chogoria which took us the 100 miles back to the hotel in Nairobi.

Back at the Kenya Comfort Hotel, another shower, a shopping trip to buy a Mount Kenya T-shirt and organise the evening celebrations, before we hit the road for Tanzania. We decided to eat out at The Carnivore Restaurant, which as its name suggest it not suitable for vegetarians. The tour company Into Africa loaned us the minibus and driver, the same driver who had driven us during the day to take and bring us back. The menu consisted of a small salad for starters followed by, beef, lamb, turkey, chicken, goat, chicken tikka, crocodile, and camel. Camel is tough. The wine and beer flowed, the choir sang carols in English and Swahili, the place was packed with mainly Kenyans and their children and a few European tourists like ourselves. The lights twinkled on the Christmas Trees (Kenyans and Tanzanians celebrate Christmas and New Year) and a surprise we were all given signed certificates for climbing Pt Lenana. A memorable night.

Day 9 CHRISTMAS DAY

Spent travelling the 100 or so miles to the Tanzanian Border. The first fifty miles on a tarmac road with Kilimanjaro visible in the distance, the other on a dirt road with giraffes, zebra, ostriches wandering along the road side. Arrived at Kibo Slopes Cottages, in the early afternoon and found that mobile phones were working again. Time for a Christmas call home and Christmas dinner.

Day 10 BOXING DAY Safari in the Amboseli National Park. (3000ft)

In the shadow of Kilimanjaro the second smallest but the second most popular Game Reserve in Kenya was only a short drive away from the Cottages. A splendid day off watching elephants, lions, wildebeests, zebras, hippos, monkeys, baboons and dozens of varieties of antelopes.

Day 11 The start of the Kilimanjaro Trek. To Naremoru 6397ft.

Early start, through the Kenyan efficient border post, another badly rutted dirt road to the Tanzanian Border post at Loitokitok. Where the Tanzanian border guard who had to stamp our passports was “to ill” to get out of bed. That was the official line; the locals told us he was too drunk after the previous days Christmas celebrations. So we entered the country illegally. Up to Naremoru, the start of the path. Here we met our porters and guides, who in order to get to us from Arusha (The Llanberis of Tanzania) had started at 2.00am. The weather was fine and warm it was a fairly short walk to the camp (Kili was all tents). The first mile or so was past smallholdings where a variety of crops were being grown, small green “French” beans being favourite along with different types of potatoes. Little and big children came rushing out of the mud huts as we past by asking for chocolate, their one word of English, we tried to oblige but so many children, so little chocolate, the kids further up the track were really out of luck. After the farmland we entered the forest and then as before the heather covered heath.

Despite pole pole we arrived at the campsite before some of the porters and had to wait in the warm sunshine as they got everything organised. The site soon filled with dozens of trekkers from all over the world. And then border guard arrived with an old-fashioned bolt-action rifle and we had entered the country illegally.

Day 12 Up to Third Caves at 12795ft

The border guard rounded everyone up after breakfasts but all he wanted was to make sure we signed the register with name, address passport number and then we were off. Another warm day and a splendid newly made path for half the way.  After five miles we arrived at the Third Caves site. No vegetation just brown dusty volcanic rock, very lunar like with about as much oxygen. Cold at night.

Day 13 To School Hut at 15429ft

Feeling the height now, a slow plod for three miles and not so warm even in the sunshine. Arrived knackered at hut and campsite. Headache, take paracetamol and half a diamox. The “tent” porter who had left after us, had overtaken us carrying 5 two-man tents and his own kit and was putting up the tents. Started to snow. The hut here is occupied at this height by park rangers who spend three weeks at a time here. They are also the first line of Mountain Rescue. They have radio coms and a small generator (12 hours of darkness). All their provisions and fuel is carried up. We have dinner and then the bad news, BREAKFAST is at 11.00PM. Move off for the summit attempt at midnight. Bugger. Bed at 6.00pm, no sleep, up at 11.00pm. Snowing hard.

Day 14 The Summit, Uhuru Peak 19343 ft. and that’s a long way up and down to Horombo Huts 12204ft

Midnight, we sing happy birthday to Scott who timed his birth 33 years previously, to coincide with his attempt on the roof of Africa. Off into the driving snow, mistake, I wore my duvet, it minus 5 degrees but the snow was very wet and soon was the duvet. It did its job though on the ascent. The guides, as on Mt Kenya wore ponchos over their cold weather jackets, very sensible. This was a hard, hard slog. At first we contoured around the mountain following the pool of light in front, snow deep, soft and heavy gaining 1000ft. Joined the snow covered main track from Kibo, which was busy with many twinkling lights above and below us. Stopped for a rest at the famous Hans Meyer Cave. Here I was sick. But felt better for it, again the guides tell me it is quite normal. Julius the guide insists that my sac is too heavy, three cameras, loads of batteries and the usual gear, takes it off me and gives it to Godfrey one of the high level porters. He wasn’t to know that I carry a heavy camera bag on my back every day when I am working and I wasn’t at the back of the group. None the less I didn’t complain.

Now a three thousand foot zigzag climb up a steep snow slope, meeting a few coming down who failed to get up. We arrived at Gilman’s Point at 6.00. Many trekkers stop here and return down the mountain. But it is not the summit. We continued for another two hours as the dawn broke, the sun breaking through the snowstorm leaving us in bright sunshine and clear skies for the last push to Uhuru Peak, the top of Africa. Stayed at the summit for 20 minutes or so to catch our breaths and the important group photo. We had now been on the move for eight hours and faced another seven hours of descent.

Reached the Kibo huts complex at 15400ft in another snowstorm where our cooks, had prepared breakfast. Seven miles to go, out of the snow crossing the alpine desert of the “Saddle” between Kibo and Mawenzi. The desert turned to Moorland and we arrived at Horombo huts at 3.00pm.Tents all ready for us. Time to phone home (mobiles work on Kilimanjaro) and to visit the luxury of a ceramic, auto flushing toilet, a squat down French style job, but ceramic. These huts and camp sites were very crowded lots of Japanese Tired but happy.

Day 15 New Years Eve. The last day, Moorland to Forest, end of walk at the Marangu Gate 6000ft.

Ten miles, 6000ft of descent to the main Park Gate at Marangu. This is the main path to the summit, known as the coca cola route. Very busy. Porters coming and going, many walkers coming up including large groups of charity walkers, many of who would never make it to the top. Through the rain forest to arrive at the Park Gate where we received out official certificates, signed by our guides and the park rangers. Bought the T Shirt, had lunch, and then into the mini bus for the ride to the lodge in Arusha and a beer. The local beer in Tanzania is called Kili, of course. Another excellent lodge where we saw in the New Year. Said our farewell to George who was off to South Africa at 6.00am

Day 16 New Years Day. Dinner at the Jambo Restaurant in Arusha.

Our Final day, Scot, Caroline and Fred went off on Safari, Chris, Brendon and I went into Arusha. Pestered by souvenir touts all day but had an excellent meal in the Jambo Restaurant. Left the Lodge in the early evening for Kilimanjaro airport, where our illegal entry into the country was spotted by the emigration official. He accepted our explanation without much fuss, it must happen quite often to visitors using the remoter crossings. Hung around the shed like airport lounge, watching Chelsea beating Liverpool on Sky TV. Bordered the KLM flight at 11.00pm to fly South to Dar Es Salam to drop off passengers and refuel. The altitude indicator showed we were at 270ft. The lowest we had been since leaving Amsterdam a couple of weeks ago. Nine hour flight to Holland and then the connecting flight to Birmingham. Home.

Helen Bailey’s Bolivia

Alan and I were being driven along the meandering rough dusty road. The bus was full – or what I’d consider to be full - with all the seats taken by Bolivians: the ladies in their bowler hats and full skirts and the men in their western-style shirts and trousers. The Bolivians who couldn’t afford a seat sat in the aisle.

As we rounded a steep-sided corrie, a bang and a sudden drop in the level of the bus indicated all was not well. I thought a wheel had gone over the edge whilst Alan predicted grounding as we had been passing over riverbeds. Either way, we were quick to alight – discovering to our surprise and shock that the wheel had fallen off! We realised we had been very lucky when the wheel and axle had separated; the undercarriage of the bus had fallen onto the upright wheel, preventing the bus from toppling over and down the one hundred-odd metre drop.

It’s good to know that in all countries some things are the same. We had not long been staring in amazement at what had happened when another bus came trundling along the single-track road and wanting to get passed.

The driver and several men managed to remove the end of the sheared axle from the fallen wheel, extend the rest of the intact axle and, with the help of jacks, get the wheel back onto its axle. The men then attempted to push the bus along to a nearby passing place. As the bus reluctantly moved forward the wheel moved down the axle until it was dangerously near the end, so the process of jacking up and moving the wheel up the axle was repeated several times. We watched in astonishment as not only did the men seem unconcerned that they were getting between this unstable bus and the large drop but there were still some women with their children remaining onboard throughout the operation.

As the bus neared the passing place, I learnt a new definition of what a crowded bus is. As people became aware that the already-full bus behind would soon be able to depart they surged onto it. People were standing in the leg spaces of the people in the seats, whilst others where tightly packed standing in the aisle with people squashed against the door. In the knowledge that we were in no rush, we and five other people were left at the side of the road.

Of course, now that we wanted another bus to appear – none did. Six hours later a bus arrived, going in the wrong direction. The driver informed us that there wouldn’t be another bus till tomorrow they took us back to the last village we had passed through and left us there. Here we got to see the real hospitality of the Bolivians, as we were fed and given accommodation on straw mattresses in the local town hall.

The next day we got on the bus and safely got to our destination – well nearly to our destination, as this one didn’t quite go the required village - so we had a five mile walk to finish the journey.

We walked for four days, longer than expected due to my suffering a bit from altitude sickness and as we eventually crossed the 5200m pass we spotted a beautiful slab of rock. As we neared this slab’s appeal decreased but it’s neighbour, a larger and less slabby outcrop intrigued us. So we decided to climb it.

Alan started to lead one line but it soon became apparent that the loose slightly green nature of the rock as well as the lack of gear this wasn’t the best idea. The lack of any rescue service or anyone’s knowledge of our location aided his decision to back off.

We spied a different line, an easy looking gully. I started leading up this, after removing greenery from the only decent looking crack to take a nut I was un-nerved when I couldn’t place it, having to do a slightly precarious move then easily finishing up the pitch. The next two pitches where a basic scramble over large boulders up a ridge. Alan successfully led the top pitch but I followed on what must have been a slightly different line. I managed to pull two TV sized blocks down, causing me to scream and fall as they narrowly missed me and thundered down the gully below. Somewhat shaken, I shouted to Alan that I was okay and realised how fortunate it was that I hadn’t been leading due to the rather sparse gear. Due to the limitations of weight and volume while backpacking neither of us had a helmet – a decision I wouldn’t make again. As I continued climbing, a smaller mug sized rock whizzed past me narrowing missing me. I was very glad when it was over and I was at the top. We later named the route “Scream Like a Girl” and graded it Diff, but due to the nature of the rock and the lack of quality of the route, I wouldn’t recommend anyone trying it.

On completion of our trek we arrived in a small mining village, where I had the most amazing egg sandwich ever – it really does deserve a mention! I’m not sure if it was the soft white bread, sprinkling of pepper, the mayonnaise or the perfectly-done egg but it was fabulous. I quickly ordered a second but this, like all other egg sandwiches to follow wasn’t as good.

We found a place to sleep, a bed in a miners’ education centre. On returning from our evening meal, I was fumbling trying to get the light on. A spark from the light switch accompanied my scream and leap backwards as I received a mild electric shock. On the production of a torch, the bare wires where the front of the light switch should have been were clearly visible. On inquiring with the lady who occupied the adjacent room, she nonchalantly fiddled the wires together holding the insulated parts and hooked the bare ends over each other. The light came on.

The next day we were on the bus on the way back to La Paz after a fun and very eventful trek.                Ted

Ice Climbing in La Grave

La Grave, situated on the northern edge of “Parc National Des Ecrins” in the French Alps, was living up to its reputation as the Mecca of the ice climbing world and everything that other climbers had told us. As we drove along the Romanche valley the steep mountain sides were littered with hanging cascades of all sizes. Looking so spectacular, we just knew at that point we were in for some great ice climbing over the next 4 days.

We managed to get a climb in on Thursday afternoon just to try to remember how to do this ice climbing stuff. The route we chose was a 50m cascade called, “Mini Caturgeas”II which started at the roadside. I was leading the last pitch when, whilst pulling over an ice bulge, my ice axes suddenly ripped out and I took a 2 to 3m fall, ending up dangling upside down from an ice screw. All I can remember is looking down at Thane, with my heart in my month and then going back up and creaming that bulge.

Each day we left the hotel around 7am, for a 30 or 45 minute walk up to a climb. Gearing up at the foot of a huge cascade whilst watching the sunrise spilling into the valley and hitting surrounding mountain peaks was how we started our days in La Grave.

Friday saw us having a go at one of the areas classics “Le Pylone”.II A 70m high, 80º angled cascade, 2 pitch route, with an abseil decent back down the cascade. The ice was bullet hard and brittle due to the low temperatures of late, making solid axe and front point placements difficult. Thane led the first pitch, getting us to a stance about half way up on the left-hand edge of the cascade. With the event of the previous day still playing with my head, it was my turn to lead the last pitch again. This was much steeper and required more technique. I guess Thursday’s episode just made me focus harder. Any way a very enjoyable climb, must do for any one visiting the area, but not for the faint hearted.

On Saturday we decided to try our skills on a 300m route called “La Colere du ciel”III. Testing ice pitches got us up some 180m of the route, when fatigue finally took hold. We still had the most technical part of the cascade to climb, so to stay in control of the day we decided to turn back. Once again great abseils back down the route.

Sunday, our last day, we decided to try another 300m route called “Goulotte Verney”III close to the hotel. Some great technical ice pitches with varying ice quality and deep powder snow linking the ice walls. This time we did reach the top. To get back into the valley, which looked a long way down, meant another series of abseils. By this time our abseiling technique had become quite slick, we descended in no time dragging the rope behind us between abseils.

Some 140km later we arrived at Lyon airport, in good time, only to be confronted with huge queues at “Check In” and rugby scrum at airport security. Only the French can organise this so well. We sat on the plane wearily contemplating our car journey’s home, tedious! Heads up, we’ve just been ice climbing in La Grave, YEAAAAAAH!                                                                                        Mark Highton – February 2005

Glencoe 16-20 Feb ‘05

Staying in the “chilly” Glencoe Bunkhouse just down the road from the Clachaig Inn, we’d planned to do at least 6 Munro’s over the 3 days, weather permitting. (Harry & Stef were staying in the “warm” Clachaig).

Our first excursion started from the Mamore Lodge Hotel at Kinlochleven, heading straight up the flanks of Na Gruagaichean (3442 ft). It was a good pull to the summit, with crampons in use for the final 500ft. With the weather closing in though, we settled for a bum slide on a great snow slope into the glen and a missed opportunity to bag another two hills. Ah well.

Returning to the Mamore Lodge, I suddenly remembered how it got its name. When the hotel was being built in 1953, an all women’s attempt on Everest had taken place. Their leader was none other than Lady Hilary Mamorey, who’d completed her expedition training from the lodge. Her golf clubs and other memorabilia still adorn the bar of the hotel, most noteworthy being the beret she wore on the summit. To honour her feet (pun intended) the hotel took the name Mamore, dropping the “y” for obvious reasons, as Lady Hilary was indeed a rather large lady.

Moving on. The following day Andy C joined us from his love nest near Oban to complete a low level walk from Glen Etive to Glencoe – it was far too windy to be on the tops. Brian and Paul Jennings found the Lost Valley and Dave P was laid up with a groin strain he’d incurred the previous day. That night we dined at the Clachaig, and were entertained by a local guitar duo, who knew three chords and loads of songs. Trouble was they all sounded like “My Old Mans A Dustman…”

Saturday and Teeth & Richard cleared off to stay with our old friend Robin in Dumfries. Brian & Paul opted for a walk up the hillside of Sgorr Dhonouill from Ballachullish and Ian B, Rob G and myself climbed up Maell a’ Bhuridh (3636ft) with crampons biting into the excellent snow and ice for about 1000ft. Ian had taken up his blades and skied down, taking a huge 150ft fall on the way – resulting in much bruising and spraining. This is the first time I’d seen this amount of snow in Glencoe for years and despite the massive queue for the lift system, the skiers were making the most of it.

We headed back the following day, and it had snowed overnight. Rannoch Moor looked fantastic in the winter sunshine. Whilst we were travelling, Harry & Stef were still climbing at the Ice Factor in Kinlochleven, well worth a visit, but a tad expensive.                                                                     Sir Ed Hilary.

EGM .05

Thanks to all who attended the EGM, the anomalies of the constitution have finally been laid to rest.

Who is…?

As this is a special year for the club, I thought it would be nice to get in touch with some former members of HMC, to share with you some of their memories of their time in the club, and to see what they are up to now:                              Andrea (Sprog ED).

Delith Jones

Delith Jones was a very keen and active member of HMC. She joined the club with friend Anthea Aggus (now living up North), and later met her partner Steve Overy. Del and Steve have been together ever since – aah.

During 1992 and 1993, Del took on the role of Public Relations Officer on the committee. Some of her climbs with the club include many V Diffs and an HVDiff with Richard E, Julie, Anita, Nigel and Steve on Birchen Edge, 1991. Later, in 1992, she climbed Grotto Slab and First Crack (Severe), on Burbage North. She completed these with fellow climbers Andy T, Clare C and Steve.

Del also caught a glimpse of fame in the Hinckley Times, on December 15^th 1989, being described as one of a “Sensible Party” on a trip to Rhyd-Ddu where she completed the Nantlle Ridge with the logical idea of leaving a car at one end of the ridge and walking back to the hut. The other party ended up walking both ways!

She also received a TAT award for being spooked by a ‘ghost’ at the Nant Gwynant Hut. The frightening “headless ghoul” emerging from the dark corner of the hut was none other than John T….we‘ll say no more!!!

Most importantly, however, is Del’s most memorable moment – she received the President’s Award in 1992 for reaching the top of Mont Blanc with Harry Pell and Kevin Turner. When describing the award, she said “What a shock!”. Del hasn’t been active on the hills recently, but sends her best wished to all at HMC.

Jennie Chatterley

Jennie Chatterley (nee Allen) was a HMC member in the 90’s. Jennie made great use of her time in the club. She completed Mont Blanc du Tacul with Pete H and Alistair P,  and spent a lot of her active time with current members, Mark and Alison H, Richard E and Alistair on Scottish winter trips and Alpine summers. In 1995, Jennie, along with Pete H, did the Karrimor International Mountain Marathon (KIMM). Later, in 1996, she completed the Annapurna Circuit in Nepal, going on to climb Mount Kilimanjaro in 1997, and Cascades in 1999. Jennie also did an excellent time in the club’s “Welsh 3000’s”.

Jennie married Tom Chatterley in 1999, of Rugby MC, of which she is currently a member and demon skittle player, in addition to being in the Bowline. She now enjoys fell running, although she still walks and climbs.  Jennie says that she “…had a great time with HMC – great friendship and laughs, Thank you HMC!”

Geoff Kelham

Geoff attended one of the very first expeditions of HMC to the Isle of Skye in the Spring Bank Holiday of 1981. The cost of the round trip was £13 and the transport was a lift in the local scout bus! Geoff was one of the first members of the club, when it was known as HOPA (Hinckley Outdoor Pursuits Association).

Geoff was a very keen climber, often climbing with Brian C, Don W and Brian G. One of Geoff’s fond memories is of taking Brian C climbing on limestone in Derbyshire, just to prove that the limestone really was loose! One of Geoff’s many outings with Brian G was an expedition to Huncote Quarry!

In March 1984, he attempted the first walk of the 3 Feathers (26 miles). However, due to “extreme weather on the moors”, he came close at 20+ miles, but didn’t quite complete it. Other members with Geoff on this walk were Greg Clare, and Mandy and Clive Garret. Later that year, in September, Geoff did his second climb of the year, the West Wall Route 240’ VS. Geoff also entered triathlons, and in November 1984, he completed the Nuneaton Triathlon in 1 hour 29 mins. As well as mountaineering, Geoff contributed to the HMC ‘Low’ magazine (the forerunner to Outside Now!), with many dramatic and comical reports on climbs, along with his very own grading system for stiles!!

These days, Geoff only climbs once a year in June, in Cornwall. He spends most of his free time on water, either dinghy racing or sailing big boats. Geoff would like to congratulate the “…club and it’s members for this very special year.”

Meets List – Sod the Decorating Tour 2005

There’s an excellent variety of events and meets to tempt you over the coming months, and a skittles date to be confirmed. For more info about any of the meets give me (Ian Edwards) a call as soon as possible.

Unless you are advised otherwise ALL MEETS need you to provide a sleeping bag. You will need to provide your own food for the weekend (most huts have very good kitchens), although some people find themselves eating in a local pub on Saturday evenings.

 And Finally…

Don’t forget to tell us what you are up to. Either post or email your article to the club or write it down in the club log book (currently held by Dave Pybus I believe). The Log book is usually available on Thursday evenings or at meets.

If you want the newsletter by Email, please Email the club with a current address. Lots of people are missing out because of inactive addresses and we are having to delete these from the list as the inbox fills rapidly with bounced back undeliverable mail.

Mark